Problem 2); all the bikes I had have (including /2 Earles fork) “steered” close to neutral requiring a slight counter steer push (push left grip to initiate left curve) only to initiate a turn and none to maintain. Give the push a “+1” level to initiate, a “0” to maintain. Even hiked off the side of my 1100RT, on the track, required “0” input to maintain a curve. Equivalent of a very light thumb and one finger on each grip. With the Wild front a significate inside grip PULL is required to maintain a curve after the initiating (give that a “-3” to maintain). Unnatural, uncomfortable alone but doable. But if one wants to tighten the curve or line, one normally applies a bit of a push on the inside grip. Basic counter steer. With the Wild a slight push results in an input that would cross over from a pull. You are unnaturally at a steady “-3” pull in a left, you automatically shoot through “0” to a slight push (+1) to tighten, going from -3 to +1. A large swerve occurs that is not intuitive & makes you go; WOW too much! correct, a WOW too much! correct, to WOW too much! This results in a response frequency that near matches the problem 1) frequency (at least with my body). Sorry about the years of technical engineering speak sneaking in the last sentence! Switching to a continental on the second bike made problem 1) much better & solve problem 2) bringing back natural neutral response on curves and reducing noise slightly. Oddly enough the -3 pull could be reduced a bit by moving the suspension setting in the opposite direction than wahat improved the stability. My 2 cents.